[JELADO] About the new jeans "LAST RESORT".

JELADO STANDARD COLLECTION Age of Longing 301XX [JP94301]
¥27,500 Taxin- Click here for details

About "LAST RESORT"

Our market base is the well-known world of vintage replicas.
Dealing with Levi's 501XX material, which can be said to be the royal road of vintage, we dismantled Dead Stock denim and started by analyzing the thread and weave of the fabric at a national inspection agency.
This "LAST RESORT" is the result of the process of making the yarn according to the analysis results.

501XX is said to be woven with 7 warps and 6 wefts, and spinning technology was not stable in the United States around the 1950s. I found that there is a difference in thickness in decimal units.

Based on the analysis results, we were able to reproduce the yarn used to weave the original denim down to the decimal point.
The thickness of the yarn count becomes thinner as the number increases, but the calculation method is that the weight is 1 pound (about 454 grams) and the length is 840 yards (about 768 meters). Twice as many threads (1680 meters) as the second thread, and three times as many threads (2520 meters) as the third thread. .
Therefore, we realized that we could not reproduce this fabric without making it from the thickness of the thread, so we decided to select from cotton and make the original weaving thread.

501XX uses yarns with completely different fiber lengths for the warp and weft.
In recreating the denim this time, we have selected cotton that is as close as possible to the fiber length of the time, from rice cotton (American cotton) that will be the same as that time.
The amount of cotton grown varies depending on the region. Long-fiber cotton is grown in areas with high temperatures, and short-fiber cotton is grown in areas with low temperatures.

Since there are places in the United States that are suitable for both, we were able to stick to rice cotton with a fiber length close to that of yarn at the time because of the environment in which we could grow cotton that has the characteristics of both.
EMOT (Eastern, Memphis, New Orleans, Texas) cotton gathered around Memphis is used for the warp, and Pima cotton grown in California is used for the weft. Succeeded in reproducing.

Next, the original reproduced thread is dyed indigo! !
Is it a reddish indigo or a bluish indigo?
The JELADO denim project this time is manufacturing with the largest number of production lots in the 15 years since the company was founded.
In weaving the denim of such a huge production lot, not only the reproducibility of the denim, but also the stability of the dyed color, that is, the stability of production that can be finished with the same color and quality without color blurring (without deteriorating quality) is the standard. I am choosing a dyeing factory.

Before deciding, I was careful and cautious, and after confirming the entire rope dyeing process, I decided to look at the uniformity of the dyeing of each thread.
If the customer likes the denim fabric this time, when they buy it again in a few years, when they choose the same denim fabric, the color fading will be different from the one they bought last time. I thought that the stability of the color would lead to whether or not people would buy it again, so I imagined, "I can confidently recommend this stable dyeing at this dyeing factory." I decided for you.

On the other hand, the indigo color blur gives an old-fashioned atmosphere. If it were a product made with such a concept, I would have asked a different factory, but this denim is a new standard for JELADO to move forward in the next 10 or 15 years. Therefore, we have decided to continue to produce indigo of the same color with absolutely little color deviation.

Before dyeing, the spun raw yarn goes through a process called warping.
Approximately 6000 to 900 strands of raw yarn are bundled into a rope for approximately 6,000 yards (approximately 5.486 m) and wound into a cylinder. Then, using a rope dyeing machine that was successfully developed for the first time in Japan, the raw yarn is dyed with indigo dye.
The pure white yarn is passed through several indigo dye tanks and squeezed by a roller.
At first, it has a bright green color, but as it is hoisted up to a higher altitude, it oxidizes as it comes in contact with the air, gradually turning a deep blue.

Various shades of indigo can be expressed by adjusting the mix of indigo dye, the time it is exposed to air, and the tension of the thread. allows it to come out.
Although these are automated equipment, adjustment of each machine requires skillful skill (craftsmanship) that is familiar with operation.
After that, the indigo-dyed warp threads are finished with starch and finally shipped to the weaver who actually weaves the fabric.

The weaver we asked for this time asks a skilled craftsman who has been weaving selvedge denim for many years to weave the denim.
Commitment to weaving We scientifically analyzed the 501XX this time, reproduced and woven the exact same thread, that is, the same standard thread as at that time.
In order to carry out thorough manufacturing here, we used the TOYODA G3 power loom, which is said to have been the first to operate in Japan, under the supervision of a craftsman who can weave according to the number of threads.
In addition, Selvage also disassembled the vintage, dyed it in the same red ear color as at that time, and investigated and reproduced the number of threads running left and right around the red ear.
Parts other than denim fabric are also reproduced without overlooking.
The 501XX fabric "LAST RESORT" was reproduced through these multiple processes.
By all means, I hope that you will actually pick it up, check it with your own eyes, and enjoy the fabric that you have put on yourself.

JELADO STANDARD COLLECTION Age of Longing 301XX [JP94301]
¥27,500 Taxin- Click here for details