JELADO Age of Longing Black tag 301EXX Gerard Age of Longing Black Tag (Indigo) [JP94301E]

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"LAST RESORT DENIM", which has become a masterpiece in JELADO's history.
Using a black tag, we produced the early 47 models, which are popular among the successive XX models.
It is a special denim made with a new approach from denim that dismantled, analyzed and reproduced XX.
We sampled from a 32-inch actual size, so-called golden size vintage individual owned by our company, and reproduced the fit at that time.
The individual we approached this time has a leather patch, a one-sided tab, long side stitches, and a thick belt loop similar to the belt loop war. I have carefully reproduced the individual quirks, such as the extra pocket seam allowance.
The LASTRESORT black tag is sewn on the pocket opening.
The inseam is sewn in three strokes for a firm fit.
By shifting the stitching of the back yoke and shifting the length of the waistband on the front and back, we sewed while considering the intentions of the time, such as devising to reduce tension as much as possible.
The fit that Levi's thinks of, and the sewing that is difficult to break as much as possible, are reproduced while taking into account the way of thinking at the time.
I took that kind of approach.
The button uses an original button made of iron with plating.
The single-sided rayon tab, original copper rivets, and leather patch are made of horse leather, which has a rough surface, making it difficult for the print to stick to the patch and creating individual differences.
Although it feels stiff at first, from the second day you can feel the stretch and softness of the fabric, just like the white tag.

"LAST RESORT BLACK TAG"

Two years ago, on the 15th anniversary of the founding of JELADO, we created LAST RESORT DENIM with the company's fortunes on the line.

The DEAD STOCK from that time was dismantled, and a certain analysis agency analyzed the length of the cotton fiber length, the thickness of the yarn, the number of twists, and the number of threads of the fabric, from the data of two DEAD STOCKs of similar ages.

Selected from the raw cotton that matches the number, making yarn and weaving the same number of threads on a loom from the 1950s, it will be the supreme denim.

By making this denim, I was able to gain a deep understanding of the characteristics of XX denim at the time, and the differences from today's denim, such as the quality of the thread and the feel of the fabric.

Among them, if I were to talk about a clear process that I didn't mention in the mission to reproduce XX, it would be "color".

In order to reproduce the texture and color of denim woven under conditions that produce a vintage-like color, spinning technology is not as advanced as it is today, and the quality of the yarn is worse than it is now.

This LAST RESORT black tag is what I created.

We used the same raw cotton as the warp and weft white tag (warp EMOT weft California Pima) to create the yarn, but the warp yarn is crafted so that the neps of the yarn can fly easily to make it more uneven.

By adding strong unevenness, you can make the vertical discoloration run longer.

Looking at the targeted vintage, the color of the weft thread was dull or conspicuous. The color of the cotton at that time looked more like yellowed unbleached than white.

I decided to create a thread that matches the depth of this color and then dye it to weave the fabric.

Changing to a dyeing factory that is different from the white tag has a completely different color.

Depending on the dyeing factory, the height of the rope and the process of dyeing are different, so the appearance of the color also changes.

And due to the difference in this process, the white tag is 14OZ and the black tag is 15OZ, and the weight of the fabric has also changed.

And by intentionally dyeing the denim deeply eight times, the denim has a deeper, deeper bluish tint.

We decided to use this wild denim with its deep color and unevenness as the “LASTRESORT DENIM black tag” as a model that seeks a more heritage texture.

In the future, those who use this denim will make denim wear for models before the 1940s.

It has a wilder look and the touch of the fabric, but after two days of wearing it, the soft comfort of a white tag will come out and transform into a smooth and stress-free fit.

(One Wash)

W28 Waist 70m Length 83cm Rise 28.5cm Thickness 26.5cm Bottom width 20cm

W29 Waist 73cm Length 83cm Rise 28.5cm Thickness 27cm Hem Width 20cm

W30 Waist 76cm Length 83cm Rise 29cm Thickness 28cm Bottom width 20.5cm

W31 Waist 79cm Length 83.5cm Rise 29cm Thigh 29cm Hem Width 21cm

W32 Waist 81cm Length 84cm Rise 29.5cm Thigh 29.5cm Hem Width 21cm

W33 Waist 84cm Length 88cm Rise 29.5cm Thigh 29.5cm Bottom width 21cm

W34 Waist 86cm Length 88cm Rise 30cm Thickness 30.5cm Bottom width 21.5cm

W36 Waist 89cm Length 88cm Rise 30cm Thickness 31.5cm Hem Width 22cm

W38 Waist 94cm Length 88cm Rise 31cm Thickness 32.5cm Bottom width 22.5cm

W40 Waist 99cm Length 89cm Rise 32cm Thickness 33.5cm Bottom width 22.5cm